Out engine collecting again - my third engine of '96. This is an ol' Fuller & Johnson hit & miss pump engine as shown at the lower left on page 191 of Wendel's second edition of "American Gasoline Engines." It is complete except for the battery box and coil, it's not stuck and it seems to have compression.
This is a double ported engine. Gade Bros. engines also use this design and it is pointed out there that the middle port is an auxiliary exhaust port. This port releases a major portion of the exhaust gases before the exhaust stroke actually begins, no doubt helping with the cooling of this air cooled engine. The lower port must be the loudest of the two as well because it is the one with the muffler. The upper port then has as its primary purpose the open breathing during hit & miss governing.
For those of you that are new to hit and miss governing, the exhaust port is held open by a governor catch plate, allowing the engine to run free with no compression during periods of low output demand. This also allows for additional cooling by way of incoming fresh air and its release during each stroke. When power is again demanded, the catch releases, the exhaust valve closes, the intake valve sucks in a fuel/air charge, it is compressed and fired, power is released, the flywheel speeds up, the governor catches the exhaust push rod keeping the exhaust port open, and the cycles go on.
RESTORATION WORK BEGINS:
Click the photos of the restoration and then close each photo before continuing. I never seem to get the FULL before photo because I'm in a hurry to take it apart I guess. Bead blasting sure makes painting easier. Click this LINK to visit my old engine bead and sand blasting page. A few photos follow to show the results of bead blasting: the cylinder and head. More bead blasted parts and the underside of the head.
To my surprise, the top half of the babbit shell was MISSING! Never buy an engine that isn't running unless you like surprises. Ed at HitnMiss Enterprises made a replacement for me. The rod has a built in grease cup with tubing to the wrist pin and a port to the crank pin. I'd be curious to know if anyone else has run into one of these. The ONLY lubricant to the wrist pin is via this cup and pipe because the piston has NO oil ring holes. The crank pin is fed grease from a cup at the rear end of the crank shaft too and some of this will work its way up the tubing.
The top side was the easy part and the dirty work comes next. I couldn't pull the GIB so I removed the whole works, flywheel, crank & cam as a group. Pulling the GIB KEY is one hell of a big problem! Kinda' like
Pulling Teeth! The bench vise, hammer and chisel did the job! After that, the crankcase is ready for a bath so it's off to the parts washer for a scrub.
I have found that the "John Deere" green paint that was put on this engine is very hard to bead blast off. I'm using a really fine grade of beads and although they give a very nice polish to the cast iron, they have no cutting power on the paint. The solution is to use Stripease and take a layer off prior to blasting.
The old engines really had a tough run in their day. Grease made it into the cups very sparingly along with lots of sawdust and dirt. If this were an engine of modern high speed design, it would not have stood a chance. Cast iron was truly made to last forever!
The engine is nearly complete.
The wooden base and plumbing (check-valve, coupling, and flanges) ready.
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